We’re back with another round of pantry files, this week, starring Abena Anim-Somuah, our friend in food and Your Friend in Food. (This is your cue to subscribe to her sharp 'stack where she delivers fresh insights that uplift the culinary community.) Last week, we peered inside the pantry of San Francisco's Jenn Yee (@pastrywithjenn), so we're kicking it over to the East Coast for a New Yorker’s take. City living necessitates precise editing when it comes to stocking a pantry, so you know every item is placed with intention – particularly when your personal and professional life revolves around food (we say this with the highest praise).
As a James Beard award-winning food writer, cultural commentator, and former podcast host, Abena applies a genuine curiosity to all she does. A self-described proud third culture kid, her words sparkle with a love for championing emerging voices and immigrants who are making an impact on the American food landscape. Abena showcases an unwavering commitment to culinary and cultural exploration through travel, visiting new restaurants, researching niche regional cuisines, and engaging chefs at the pass. These experiences are expressed through her storytelling in publications such as Vogue Mexico and Synonym Magazine, and personal contributions and spotlights in The New York Times, Eater, and Vanity Fair.
Today, Abena’s joyful approach to her work is revealed through the contents of her pantry shelves. Each item speaks to the capacity for ingredients to unlock new flavors, transport us to a different part of the world, or simply bring comfort. We’re here for all of it.
What pantry item do you always have to buy when you go to the store, regardless of whether you need it?
It’s honestly a three-way tie between a can of cannellini beans, San Marzano tomatoes, or a box of bucatini. They are some of the most versatile items you can have in your pantry, are the base for any kind of meal, and they will never dwindle when it comes to their freshness.
How many of those items do you currently have in your possession?
I’m down to my last two jars of white beans, I have about 3 boxes of bucatini along with a ton of other pasta varietals, and I won a 5lb jar of San Marzano tomatoes at a Secret Santa that I’m working my way through.
Let’s play old + new. What’s the oldest item in your pantry right now?
You actually got me at a great time in my pantry’s health, as I did a big cleanout. But as of now, I found a can of Quaker Oats that has a couple of months before they are past their best before date.
And what’s the newest addition?
I just recently did a restock of teas from Raazi! Their ginger turmeric is getting me through this dreary winter and has become a core part of my daily rituals.
Tell us the story behind your most nostalgic pantry product.
Wow, I love this question! I grew up in a home where food was everything. My parents did an amazing job of welcoming lots of different cultures to our dining table while also never letting us forget our Ghanaian roots. Growing up, we would do these trips to the Ghanaian grocery store an hour away, and my mom would always stock up on tinned sardines from Titus.
They’re a staple in Ghanaian culture and are a formidable source of protein. My parents told us stories of how they were a hot commodity in their chop boxes (their own mini pantries) in boarding school. I can only ever find them at the local Ghanaian store in the city, and I always make sure to grab five or six, both for the practicality and a chance to cure a small ounce of nostalgia.
What’s your biggest splurge item?
It’s a two-way tie between spices and jams! The best of cooking is getting to incorporate different spices into the mix, and why waste money on low-quality stuff when you can ball out for a good cause? This is what I love about Burlap and Barrel & Diaspora Co spices. They’re on the pricier side, but their quality never wavers, and I learn a lot about the origin, peak seasons, and farmers who grow and harvest the crop.
When it comes to jam, I love to pick up a jar whenever I’m visiting a place or checking out a new specialty grocery store. The more small-batch and the more niche the fruit, the better. Current favourites are Jamangasset’s Raspberry Vanilla Jam, this bougie rhubarb jam I nabbed from Bon Marché in Paris, Japanese brand Kankitsu Labo’s Amanatsu & Lemon spread that I picked up in San Francisco at Omnivore Books, and a jar of Hotaru Food’s matcha milk spread I nabbed from Murray’s Cheese.
What are your five desert island items – the must-haves you use the most frequently + always have in stock?
1. Really good olive oil! The bougiest kind you can find. It’s a tie between Inez Olive Oil, Graza, and Brightland! (Editor's Note: We love bougie olive oil + we love Brightland. Check out our Q&A with founder Aishwarya Iyer here!)
2. A jar of shito! It’s a Ghanaian peppery sauce made from dried shrimp and scotch bonnets. I’d specifically have a jar from my aunt and uncle’s company, based in the U.K.
3. Heyday Canning’s Soup: I try my best to honor my ingredients' household, but I can’t resist the “heat and eat” of Heyday’s soups. Their coconut corn chowder is superb, and it seems practical to have a few of these on a dessert island.
4. Tea. There’s something so soothing about a daily tea ritual, so I always have to be stocked up. I have a high caliber for tea, and some of my favourites are from Drink Dona, Raazi, and Rare Tea Company. I’d bring chamomile for nighttime and a warm green tea for the morning.
5. A sweet treat! I have a colossal sweet tooth! In being a responsible adult, I have a small stash of goodies after a long day or a little pick-me-up. I love Bjorn Qorn’s spicy popcorn, a bar from Figa Foods, a bar made from Brazilian superfood cupuaçu, Maltesers, and whatever homemade granola I’m toting around.